More UK Road Trip: Stow-on-the-Wold

After an all-too-brief-visit to Bourton-on-the-Water, we headed off to nearby Stow-on-the-Wold. Stow is larger, older (I think), and its sits atop a hill.

Helpful Map
Helpful Map

 

This is the town I remember from pictures my friend Janet shared when she visited in late 2013. Janet had been in England for an Annie Sloan Chalk Paint gathering. When she heard I’d be in Stow-on-the-Wold, she said, “You have to stop by and say hello to my friend, Jenny.”

My shy Hubby gets annoyed when I say we have to meet people I know on our journeys, so I figured that if we saw this shop Janet mentioned and had time that I’d pop in to say hello to her friend. Mainly because I knew it would make Janet’s day.

Ivy-covered Inn
Ivy-covered Inn

 

Stow was just as lovely as Bourton, with its limestone buildings and narrow, winding streets. It’s bigger and full of cute little shops.

We parked at the lower end of town and made our way uphill toward the market square. When we passed this restaurant, I marked it, mentally, as a place we should consider for lunch. Especially since Hubby loves old stuff.

Old (still operational) Restaurant
Old (still operational) Restaurant

 

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Tiny Street

 

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Market Cross

 

I hadn’t read a ton about Stow, but I did know I wanted to see St. Edward’s Church.

St. Edward's Church (built between the 11th and the 15th centuries)
St. Edward’s Church (built between the 11th and the 15th centuries)

 

The north door of the church is said to have been JRR Tolkien’s inspiration for his drawing of the Gates of Moria in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

North door of St. Edward's Church
North door of St. Edward’s Church

 

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Inside St. Edward’s Church

 

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South Door of St. Edward’s Church

 

St. Edward’s is much smaller than the grand cathedrals we’ve visited, but it was still quite beautiful in its own right.

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Beautiful Stained Glass

 

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Interior carved plaque (I suspect this is not original to the church).

 

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Exterior adornment, crumbling.

 

Grave Markers
Weathered Grave Markers

 

We spent more time in and around St. Edwards’ than I’d anticipated we would have. It was lovely, really. But we had places to go, and we were both getting hungry, so we made our way back toward where we’d parked.

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Side-street Shops

 

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Police Station in Cotswold Stone

 

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Interesting Nippled Glass

 

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Very Cool (my opinion) Old Stone Barn, Mid-town

 

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Pretty Flowers

 

We actually did eat at The Porch House. It’s over a thousand years old, how could we not?

The Porch House photo collage.
The Porch House photo collage.

 

The food was delicious, the atmosphere was quaint… it was a win-win.

After lunch, we continued toward the car.

Since we actually had to pass Jenny’s shop (Janet’s friend), I went in.

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Vintage & Paint, Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (ASCP) Stockist

 

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“Quirky Old Stuff” describes the place perfectly.

 

The funny thing is, I often like to visit ASCP stores when I travel. Because they’re all quite different. Vintage & Paint is truly unique. I think it’s my favorite, too.

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ToadMama with the Vintage & Paint Mannequin

 

I absolutely LOVED the shop.

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Part of Jenny’s GI Joe collection.

 

Jenny had actually run out to grab lunch, so I hung around for a bit and Hubby went to wait in the car.

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GI Joe

 

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She even had Elvis.

 

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Mind the Slope!

 

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Annie Sloan apron-wearing mannequin.

 

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Happy Postman Statue

 

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Fun boar’s head and more GI Joes.

 

I really did love the store. It’s me, right?

And I actually did get to meet Jenny, too, albeit briefly.

Hubby had been waiting for a while by the time she returned. And the shop was rather busy. Jenny was disappointed that I hadn’t called ahead so we could have scheduled a cup of coffee. I tried to explain that we were avoiding adhering to any sort of agenda. It’s a shame, though, because I believe a sit-down with Jenny would have been fun.

I’m sad I didn’t get a picture with Jenny, but she had customers to tend to.

When I told Jenny how much I liked her shop and how radically different it is from Janet’s, she admitted that she was a bit embarrassed when Janet showed up unexpectedly at her door.They’d only met for the first time at that ASCP conference I mentioned.

She’d gotten the impression that Janet’s shop was a bit more girly and frilly than Vintage & Paint, and she was afraid Janet may have been appalled at her eclectic, unusual collection. I assured her that, while many of her wares are not Janet’s cup of tea, I’m sure Janet, who is not uppity at all, enjoyed seeing Jenny’s unique, fun, expressive, and funky shop.

As I was leaving, I told Jenny I liked her mannequin. She said to me, with the dry British sense of humor and accent that I truly enjoy, “She’s a bit under-dressed today. She was wearing a coat yesterday, but someone bought it.” LOL.

And that wraps up our too-short visit to Stow-on-the-Wold.

Next up, Gloucester Cathedral. Be sure to check back, especially if you liked seeing my post from Canterbury. Gloucester Cathedral is absolutely amazing.

UK Road Trip Continued

If you’ve been following along, you know that we stopped for an overnight on Monday in the Cotswold town of Bourton-on-the-Water.

Monday had been a long, but wonderful day. We had a lot of ground to cover on Tuesday, so, instead of lingering abed, I got up early to explore the quaint little town.

Our hotel — The Dial House — was an absolutely charming place, built in 1698.

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The Dial House Hotel & Restaurant

 

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The River Windrush flows right through town.

 

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Old garden wall along the river.

 

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Our glasses were still on the table from the night before .

 

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Village buildings fashioned from Cotswold limestone.

 

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Motoring Museum

 

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Classic red phone booth.

 

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Ivy-covered cottage.

 

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It was a very picturesque place.

 

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I really wanted to bring that big sheep home.

 

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Rear garden path at The Dial House.

 

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Sitting room inside The Dial House.

 

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Cocktail bar inside The Dial House.

 

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Front garden at The Dial House.

 

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Building along the river.

 

I’m really glad I took the time for that stroll. It was a lovely, peaceful place.

I was a bit worried that I wouldn’t be able to find coffee that early in the land of tea, but I actually found a news agent’s shop that was open — yay!! — and the nice man at the counter served me a delicious coffee, which I drank during my stroll.

Later, I returned to the same shop to get a coffee for my sweet Hubby.

By then I figured he’d had time to wake up and shower.

Not long after that we were on our way.

Our first stop on Tuesday was to be Stow-on-the-Wold, a the nearby, larger Cotswold village that I’d seen in my friend Janet’s pictures from a trip she’d taken the previous Fall.

Stow-on-the-Wold, which I’ll share in my next post, was just as lovely as I’d expected.

The Great UK Road Trip

As I said in my last post, we didn’t want to bother Annelies while she was working, so we took a “little” road trip up to the UK.

I am the family travel planner. Because Hubby is such a good sport about letting me decide where to go, what to see, and how to get there, I usually try to avoid stuff I know he will HATE and include stuff I think he will enjoy.

I wanted to see the Cotswolds in England.

Are you wondering about this “Cotswolds” thing?

It’s actually a region in England known for its beautiful setting and honey-colored limestone villages. And sheep or, more accurately, wool. Which, of course, comes from sheep. My friend, Janet, had visited there last year, and the pictures she shared of the villages enchanted me. I’m a sucker for cute and colorful villages.

The area is pretty rich in history, too. And Hubby loves old stuff. Plus there’s tons of castles, manor houses, and cathedrals, so I knew we’d find something that he would enjoy.

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Zaffelare, Belgium to Bourton-on-the-Water, in England

 

Google maps said this route was about six and a half hours and a little over 300 miles. After studying the map and seeing that we would be going past Oxford, I got an idea. But I’m getting ahead of myself…

Initially, I thought we’d take the Channel Tunnel over to the UK, but I didn’t want to buy the tickets in advance in case the weather turned crappy and we nixed the trip. Then, the night before we were to leave, we discovered that a Chunnel ticket (you drive your car onto a train which carries you through the tunnel) would cost about 139 Euros ONE WAY. That’s about $175. Yikes!

Then Annelies started looking into ferries and discovered we could get a round-trip ticket for about 50 Euros or $64. The ferry took longer, but that was a pretty big price difference. Plus, I love ferries and am slightly creeped-out by long-ass tunnels. So the ferry it was.

We had to drive into France to reach the ferry terminal. My, what a busy place.

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Hi, ho, hi, ho, a ferrying we go.

 

The ferry was HUGE. I’d been impressed by the Washington State ferries. These were far bigger.

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DFDS Seaways Ferry

 

I love boats, so I couldn’t stay below deck while we sailed. Unfortunately, it go foggy pretty quickly, so I didn’t get to see much.

At one point, I noticed something odd peeking through the fog on the horizon.

My first thought, honestly, was, “Is that a glacier?”

Not that I really thought that would even be possible, but that’s what it looked like through the haze.

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What the heck is THAT!?!

 

It was the famed white cliffs of Dover. Now, if I’d done more reading about the ferry crossing, I would have expected that. Anyway…

Canterbury, which was our first stop, was only about a 20-30-minute drive. (I covered that visit in yesterday’s post.)

We spent much longer than we’d expected admiring the cathedral, so we had to hurry a bit to reach our next stop before the business day ended. And that meant we didn’t have time for a proper meal, so we just grabbed some road snacks.

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Chocolate-stuffed Chocolate Chip Cookies for Hubby

 

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Caramello-looking Cookies and a Flapjack (like a soft oat cake) for Me

 

Oxford was our next stop. Since we were going to be in the neighborhood, I thought it would be fun to visit a certain little paint shop.

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We found Cowley Road.

 

It was quite a lively little neighborhood.

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Busy Oxford Street

 

As for the paint shop… you know the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint® I prattle on about? Well, her shop is in Oxford. I thought it might be fun to stop in

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THE Annie Sloan Shop

 

Plus I knew it would make Janet’s day. It have been even more fun if Annie had been there, but she wasn’t. It was still really cool to see her shop. It’s where that magic paint began.

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ToadMama at Annie Sloan’s shop.

 

It’s a tiny little shop, so we weren’t there for long. Besides, by then, we were starving. Since we’d already paid for the car park (aka parking lot), we decided to grab dinner in Oxford. We actually found an adorable little cafe right down the street from The Annie Sloan Shop.

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The Tick Tock Cafe got two thumbs up from us.

 

It had a colorful, fun, funky interior, which you know I loved.

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Inside the Tick Tock Cafe.

 

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Clocks!

 

It also had really good paninis.

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Yummy Paninis

 

We still had a couple hours worth of driving to do, so we didn’t linger long. Getting out of Oxford during rush hour was a bit trying, but we made it. And, soon enough, we were in the Cotswold countryside.

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Rolling hills in the Cotswolds

 

It was just as lovely as the pictures I’d seen made it appear.

The narrow roads with unusually high speed limits were interesting, to say the least, but Hubby did a great job with the driving.

We managed to reach Bourton-on-the-Water, our final destination, JUST before dark. We hadn’t made reservations in advance (I didn’t want to be slave to any real agenda). I was getting a bit worried after all three of the hotels we’d tried didn’t have a room for us. Luckily, The Dial House had a vacancy.

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Small but super-charming room.

 

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Tea Supplies (instant coffee, too)

 

After unwinding for a bit, we went for a night-time stroll along the river that runs through town, hence the name Bourton-on-the-Water.

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Romantic Nighttime Stroll

 

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Romantic Nighttime Stroll

 

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Two Pints of Stella

 

What better way to end a LONG, hectic day that with a couple of pints, enjoyed at an outdoor, riverside pub?

Ah, England…

Canterbury Cathedral

The vacation re-cap continues…

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I knew we would drive Annelies crazy if we spent too much time at the house while she was working, so I planned a little excursion up to the UK. I wanted to explore the Cotswolds, a mostly rural area in south central England known for its stone-built villages, historical towns, stately homes, and sheep. And Hubby loves to see old stuff. We both really enjoy visiting cathedrals, too. So after a bit of research into roughly where in the Cotswolds we’d end up the first night, I picked some cathedrals to visit.

I only laid-out the rough plan for the UK visit a day or so before we left for Belgium. And Annelies booked our ferry passage the night before we left.

It’s tempting to do day-by-day posts to get this vacation re-cap finished more quickly. But some places are so special, they need a post of their own, like Canterbury Cathedral, our first planned stop in the UK.

According to the brochure, worship has been taking place daily at Canterbury for over 1,400 years.

Try as I might, I couldn’t fit the whole building in one frame. The place is massive. And the town was built right up around the property.

I had to rely upon this aerial view, captured by AD Photographics of Kent, England, to give you a better appreciation of its size. You can see how the town surrounds the cathedral property.

We were able to find a parking spot on a street several blocks away from the cathedral. We could see the towers, of course, but had no idea how to get to the property, which is surrounded by walls and buildings.

When you’re walking up close, like on the street immediately adjacent to the property, you can’t see the cathedral.

Burgate Street (immediately adjacent to the Precincts of Canterbury Cathedral) property)
Burgate Street (immediately adjacent to the Precincts of Canterbury Cathedral) property)

So, clueless tourists that we were since I hadn’t done proper advance planning, we were walking up Burgate Street wondering how to find the cathedral. Hubby was still a tad stressed after navigating the labyrinth of small, busy streets whilst driving on the wrong side of the road. By stressed I only mean his brain was too numb to focus. After another block or so, I saw this…

Christ Church Gate
Christ Church Gate

 

I vaguely remembered having read that you had to go through a gate. Doesn’t that sort of look like the facade of a haunted house that you’d see on a beach town boardwalk? Until you look more closely, that is.

Remember, click on any image and a larger version will pop up. Use your back button to return to this page.

Closer look at Christ Church Gate.
Closer look at Christ Church Gate.

 

Um, that’s a rather famous gate. (I am no historian. I just like seeing cool, old stuff.)

This is what you see after walking through the gate (and paying your entrance fee).

Canterbury Cathedral
Canterbury Cathedral

 

The whole back half of the building is missing from that shot. Really.

Here are a few exterior images.

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Historical figures decorate one exterior wall of the South West Porch.

 

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Fun details.

 

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Statues on outside building corner.

 

Maintaining and restoring this building, much of which dates to about the 11th century, is a constant and ongoing process.

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Evidence of deterioration.

 

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Look at that detail.

 

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Looking up from cathedral entrance at the South West Porch.

 

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Small section of the rear of the building.

 

Now, how about some interior highlights?

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The Nave

 

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Vaulted ceiling of the Harry Bell Tower.

 

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Intricate wood carving.

 

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Tomb of Archbishop Chichele (d.1443)

 

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Stained Glass

 

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Tomb

 

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Site of the former shrine of St. Thomas

 

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Amazingly colorful stained glass.

 

Not to diminish the grandeur of that window or anything, but do you see the Little Mermaid?

Or is it just me?

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Gothic Revival pulpit (youngish; it was done in 1893)

 

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Vaulted Passageway

 

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Chapter House (walls date to the late 11th century)

 

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Wagon-vaulted roof (c.1400) of Irish oak (decoration typical of late English Gothic style)

 

Here’s something a little different for you…

I took the following quick(ish) video to try and illustrate the scale of this place.

 

Here are a few final pics…

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There’s lots and lots of stained glass at Canterbury.

 

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South Door (I think)

 

 

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South West Side

 

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South East Side (I think)

 

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Portion of Roman wall (c. 270-290 AD) incorporated into the more-“modern” Medieval era wall.

 

The rest of my Canterbury pics are lumped into a UK Day 1 Flickr album, starting here.

The cathedral actually has a great Web site. You can even enjoy your own virtual tour, which I highly recommend. Not only will you see more of this amazing place, you’ll get the historical details.

As for us, after leaving the cathedral, we were off to Oxford. On the wrong side of the road again.

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Would you prefer I share fewer pics in a post? Or do you have an opinion? Do share, please.

And Then There Was Bruges

Ah, Bruges. I LOVED Bruges. The colors, the brickwork, the architecture in general, the canals, the churches, the myriad, winding streets… it really is my new favorite city.

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Lace

 

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The Markt (aka Big Market Square)

 

Amazing Variety of Brick
Amazing Variety of Brick

 

I should apologize in advance. If you’re not a visual person, you will hate this post. I posted 335 pictures to my Bruges album. It was hard deciding which ones to share here. There was just so much cool stuff to see and to share…

I was absolutely enthralled by the bricks. Everything is made of brick. Houses, barns, industrial buildings, cathedrals, bridges. And they were very creative with their brickwork.

Really.

HINT: If you click on an image, you’ll get to see a bigger version and more detail.

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Brick, statues, leaded windows, and a stepped facade. Wow.

 

Bruges is known as one of Belgium’s best-preserved Medieval villages. Even though it’s big, it still feels like a village, too.

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Golden Angel

 

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Belgian’s are proud of their football team, and for good reason.

 

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Brick, brick, and more brick.

 

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On the front of a building in The Markt.

 

The Belfort
The Belfort, built in the mid-1200s

 

Belfort as seen from the interior courtyard.
Belfort as seen from the interior courtyard.

 

Belfort detail. In brick.
Belfort detail. In brick.

 

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One of many canal “streets.”

 

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Beautiful blue-sky backdrop.

 

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Canal-side brick.

 

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Cool reflection.

 

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Camembert sandwich (my favorite lunch of the trip).

 

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Look closely. It’s all brick.

 

That tall tower is the Church of Our Lady. Built of brick, the tower is just over 401 feet tall (122.3 meters). It’s the second-tallest brickwork tower in the world.

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Even the cathedral ceiling is brick.

 

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Cathedral art.

 

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Incredible stonework.

 

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Cathedral art.

 

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I adore painted statues.

 

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Impressive church.

 

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General interestingness.

 

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Moor very cool brick-work.

 

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Gorgeous skyline.

 

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More brick. Look at those curves.

 

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Still more brick, color, and leaded windows.

 

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Canal cul-de-sac?

 

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Funky-fun mannequin.

 

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Late-afternoon snack.

 

Those pics are just a sampling of the images I captured. The rest can be seen in my Bruges album on Flickr. Some of Annelies’ captures are in there, too.

So, who wants to go and visit Bruges now? đŸ™‚

The Old and the “New”

This is another installment of our Europe 2014 trip.

As I mentioned in a previous post, Annelies and Yves recently bought a new-to-them house with a huge renovation budget. They surprised us on the way to Brussels with a stop to see their new digs.

But first… here’s a classic series of photos captured on Friday afternoon. Yves was cooking up some burgers, Annelies and Mike were chatting, and I was just taking it all in. I couldn’t help but chuckle as Annelies and Mike chatted. Their hand gestures amused me.

“Now, what are you laughing at?” Annelies asked.

When I told them it was their use of hand gestures that was amusing me, they continued… (If you just see a black or empty space below, click on it. A plug-in may need to be installed for you to see the short slideshow, with music.)

 

We laugh A LOT when we are together. And I sometimes get a bit of good-natured abuse.

Anyway… here we are having dinner on Day 1.

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Yes, I shared this in an earlier post. But I really like this pic.

 

Here’s a shot of their current house from the “garden” (what we call their backyard).

Current house as seen from the garden.
Current house as seen from the garden.

 

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Brownie and Whitey (my names for them)

 

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Garden Shed at the Current House

 

Their current house and yard are relatively small. They (Annelies mainly) want a more modern-looking place and a bigger garden (that’s Yves’ priority). In a small country like Belgium, big pieces of property come with a big pricetag. So, to keep the purchase within budget and get the exact house that they want, they bought an older property, built during the 1950s, and are going to completely renovate the place. And I do mean completely.

They are not yet sure whether the chickens will be making the move.

Their “new” house is really just a shell, so I didn’t take many interior pics.

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View of the House from the Rear

Annelies’ home office will be in the left-hand side of the second floor, just off the terrace/deck. She’ll have a lovely garden view.

The house was most-recently used as doctors’ offices, I think. This huge door will be kept and incorporated somehow into the decor of Yves’ man room.

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Funky Cool Interior Door

 

Here’s something we don’t see in America…

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Large Chestnut Tree in the Middle of the Rear Garden

 

Where there’s a Chestnut tree, there are…

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Chestnuts!

 

It’s a huge garden.

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Our men at the rear of the garden.

 

Their new neighborhood is more-urban than the one where they currently live. But I think it’s got a fun and funky feel.

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Looking left down the street from their driveway.

 

Hubby and I are both looking forward to our next visit when the house renovation should be complete. Or mostly, complete. There’s only so much you can do at one time.

All of the pics from our arrival day, old house, and new house can be viewed in this Flick album.

What do you think of their new more-urban oasis?